Slow beans

Serves four · about , mostly unattended

What goes in

Soaking is optional. Unsoaked beans take roughly forty minutes longer and hold their shape better, which is usually what you want here.

What to do

  1. Cover the beans with cold water by three fingers. Bring to a bare simmer and skim once.
  2. Drop in the onion, garlic, bay and lemon peel. Pour the oil over the top and leave it there.
  3. Hold at the laziest simmer the burner allows. One bubble every second or two, not a rolling boil.
  4. After two hours, start tasting. A done bean collapses on the tongue with no chalk in the middle.
  5. Salt only once they are soft. Salted early they stay stubborn.
  6. Let them sit off the heat for twenty minutes. The liquid thickens on its own as it cools.